Hong Kong – Beijing by Train T97/T98

There and back

Large curtained picture window, upholstered armchair and table covered in white lacy cloth. Blue and white potted philodendron (money plant ) alive on the table, blue and white carpet underfoot. Clean, white linen, soft pillows and quilt on bed. En-suite toilet, shower facilities, toiletries and long mirror on door. Air-conditioning, T.V. and Public Address system with separate controls. Luxury hotel suite? No, Deluxe Soft Sleeper on the Hong Kong/Beijing Train.

Jingjiu Railway compartments come in Soft Sleeper (two berth) which I had all to myself on return trip, Hard Sleeper (four berth), six berth room. Prices go from about US$180 to under US$100.

The T97 Hong Kong Beijing train leaves from Hung Hom Station (Hong Kong) at 15.15 and reaches Beijing West Railway station about 24 hours later. The trip back T98, leaves from the same station Beijingxi, (Beijing West, not Beijing Station) about 12:00 and arrives in Hung Hom mid-day, the next day. The ticket if purchased in Beijing will be issued for Jiulong (Kowloon). Trains depart on alternate days from both ends.
At least an hour allowance should be made for security check, health check and immigration.

On approaching the Hong Kong China border at Lowu passengers surrender their passports to train staff. These are returned when almost in Beijing.

Along the route the express train picks up no passengers except at Lowu. At limited stops at stations in Changsha, Wuhan and Zhengzhou passengers travelling from Guangzhou are allowed to get off and at these stations laundry and rubbish are unloaded and things needed on the train picked up. When stopping at stations train staff request passengers draw the curtains on windows, for privacy perhaps.

It is a ‘no smoking’ train but happy addicts light up in the passages between coaches and vicarious smokers can often enjoy tobacco smoke coming in through the vents near the doors. The non-smoking rule does not apply to the male train-staff and chefs and others in uniform light up even in the buffet carriage every spare moment they get.

Staff speak Mandarin and some Cantonese, no staff speak English. Only Yuan, no foreign money, is accepted in the buffet coach. Buffet coach is open only at meal times. The one page laminated Chinese menu consists of limited selection.

It is easy to navigate but pictures of dishes look similar except for a fish shaped dish and a yellow one (ham and eggs). No vegetarian dishes, time to fast, detoxify. No requests for noodles in hot water will be accepted.

Hot and cold water are available at the end of carriages.

Extra toilets between carriages are both pedestal and squat. Spotlessly clean and smelling strongly of disinfectant as the train leaves Hong Kong but as the hours pass get progressively smelly and are quite evil by the time you reach your destination.

When the buffet carriage is closed train staff carry big baskets of China version of fake lacquer ‘Bento Boxes’ of rice dishes and other interesting food for sale, and they walk through the corridor at times calling out their wares. This lovely sing-song calling-out has a quaint ring to it, reminiscent of calls in other languages in other trains elsewhere.

Reading 'End to Sufferng' by Pankaj Mishra

The day-long meditative trip from Hong Kong, almost yogic in quality, does not quite prepare passengers when spewed out at the Beijing West Station. Immediately after security check and immigration you are on your own. The vast station of seething mass of humanity shouting, walking, running, pushing; or squatting relaxed and smoking or stretched out asleep with luggage for pillows. It is pretty confusing and difficult to contend with if you are not a Beijinger. When trying to seek out transport it is not wise not to try out your English, go for Mandarin, or have the address of your hotel written down in Chinese. All taxis run on meters, but might be useful to remind the driver to have it running.

Curiosity on their part at seeing a dark-skinned person and a good dose of nodding, grinning, and ‘xie xie’ on my part worked for me.

I would do this trip again and this time would be armed with champagne and carrot sticks for breakfast and packets of crisps, packet noodles, and green tea for the rest of the meals.

more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beijing-Kowloon_Through_Train